Just Say No to Arkansas

September 8 and 9, 2008

Ok, so we got a leisurely start on our westward trek on Monday, September 8^th and were moving along at a brisk clip, as traffic was light. We skirted around Atlanta and dodged Birmingham and blew into the “Gret Stet of Missipi’” and upon our arrival were met with a giant billboard proclaiming, “Our children can’t read!” and underneath was the word “Mississippi” with the esses all backwards! Enuf said. However, to be fair, we stopped at a tourist information center and were greeted by two fine elderly Southern belles who served free refreshments and an offer to book a room at any hotel in Mississippi at a discount! We reluctantly turned down their offer as we wanted to make it to Memphis our first day. They both looked so injured that John said as we were leaving “I thought they were going to ask for their drinks back!”

We continued on until we got to the bleak south side of Memphis and hurriedly drove through and decided we would cross the Mississippi River and stay in West Memphis, Arkansas the first night. Well, we got on Interstate 55 North and realized that after two exits to West Memphis that we were in the middle of nowhere. Interstate 55 travels parallel to the River and we were driving through the farms that everyone blames for polluting said river. We found ourselves in the Twilight Zone because even though there were exits off the interstate, but no entrances going back to West Memphis!!! We had to travel through this valley for 70 miles until we got to Blytheville, Arkansas, which to me is aptly named. We checked into the Holiday Inn and I turned on the television in our room just as “The Closer” was coming on. The desk clerk told us they had room service until 10 pm! Oh my God! We were starving and thirsty and I felt as though we had discovered an oasis in this vastness of eastern Arkansas. The bed was marvelous, the people were extra friendly and we got one of the best night’s sleep we’ve had in a while.

This morning I got up and went down to the restaurant and had the best buttermilk pancakes with apricot honey in the world. I will recommend the Holiday Inn in Blytheville, Arkansas to anyone going out to Branson because it is worth it to stop there on your way. BTW, we skipped Branson because we wanted to get close to Kansas City today. After checking out, we drove another many miles through the valley and into Missouri and eventually started to ascend into the Ozarks. The scenery changed drastically and reminded us of driving through California from Yosemite to Carmel. We found a radio station that was playing really old country and western and music reminiscent of that played in “Oh Brother, where art thou?” We both thoroughly enjoyed that ride this morning. We decided that we wanted to stop in one of the little towns on the way to Springfield, Missouri to eat lunch in a local joint instead of a chain. Well, we had lots to choose from. There are no McDonald’s in this neck of the woods. We stopped in Winona, Missouri and ate lunch at Flossie’s Apple Barn Restaurant and had their special; Beef Fritters (?) with mashed potatoes, cole slaw, corn and SCHOOL rolls!!! Turns out the beef fritter is a cubed steak dipped in heavy batter and fried. Yummy. It was funny because there were about a dozen locals eating there and when we walked in…silence! They did not say a word until after we had ordered, and since we got the special, they gave us an unsaid “okay”. There was a message on the chalkboard that read “September = Hard Times” which I thought was poignant. The heartland of America is hurting. They are hard working blue collar or farm workers and are getting the shaft.

We had to stop at the Wal-Mart to get a lock for the bicycles and I swear the clientele are the same nationwide. With one exception. In this area of Missouri, there are no non-Caucasians. The Missouri DOT is working on the roads every where we’ve been today and every single worker was Caucasian. No Hispanic nor African-American workers. Nada. It is very strange here. I guess they do look oddly at strangers.

We then continued on to the Laura Ingalls Wilder home in Mansfield, Missouri and another sweet little hillbilly lady gave us a guided tour. Very interesting. We then began our final leg of our day through Quaker country believe it or not! We were just riding along and passed a couple in a horse drawn carriage! They travel in the emergency lane of U.S. Highway 60!!!! Totally cool. Their farms are immaculate and the outbuildings, though not new, are shiny and clean. We finally stopped in Bolivar, Missouri at the Comfort Inn because it has become late and we are tired. I have included pictures of the Mississippi valley of Arkansas, Flossie’s and the Laura Ingells Wilder home. More tomorrow.